Zoe Williams reviews

Friday, December 04, 2009 - I had the salt-cod fritters with pickled fennel and this charmed me utterly. The fritters had a beautiful, saffron-coloured crunchy outside, with a salty, street-foody fish inside...Mains were disappointing. I have a theory that they're so bowled over by their wood-roasting oven they have taken their eye off all the elements of cooking that aren't roasting...I liked the style and setting so much I didn't care about the main-course let-downs. So what if you didn't finish your vast chop? That's just less to swim off afterwards.

Sunday, September 28, 2008 - My Bristol friend, S, said she started off being infuriated that you could never get a table at Culinaria; then...finally, she reached a place of acceptance, deciding that the opening hours were like English wild strawberries - you didn't demand them, you just took them where you found them. That must be a pretty special restaurant, you might think, to warrant such yearning. Well, it is, but not to look at.