Matthew Fort reviews

Saturday, July 17, 2010 - Sally approached her egg and asparagus, which had been baked en cocotte, with epicurean precision and every sign of pleasure. She was less whelmed by the red mullet which, although a magnificent piece of fish, she found muddled on the flavour front. Perhaps the crustacean foam put her off...On the other hand, I cheerily put away the wild rabbit. It was a proper ballotine, too, a kind of sausage made with large chunks of meat in which the rabbit flavours hopped about in agreeable fashion.